Day 6 - Great Langdale to Keswick

There really is no such thing as a rest day in the Lake District. We badly needed a break for our aching legs and blistered feet but still forced ourselves to cycle for two hours in the pouring rain to try to escape the mountain weather. Unsuccessfully, I might add.

Seathwaite, in the next valley over from our campsite, is apparently the rainiest village in the UK, with over 3 metres of rainfall every year. Thats about 10mm a day, or 5 times more than i'm used to in london and norwich. The mountains create their own micro weather system of wind and rain, and we were stuck in the middle of it. If we didnt get out, we would continue to be soaked each and every day.

So after a lie in (until 10am!) and a lazy morning, we assembled our things in the handy campsite Dry Room and got back in the saddle. It definitely felt like we were heading down river as we left the Langdale valley, still shrouded in cloud behind us. But after late lunch in Ambleside it was more up-hills over Cols and across hills. Wearing waterproofs, although great for keeping out water, is not ideal when cycling. The combination of sweat and rain means you quickly become soaked inside and out. Even the fast downhills offer no relief, as your sheer speed hurls raindrops at you like the strongest of showers. Not only is this wettening, it can also be dangerously blinding. We headed on in this fashion past Wordsworth's Grasmere and up to the distinctly Scottish-looking Therlmere (pictured in the rain, right)

The rain increased in heaviness and, dejected once again, we found the nearest campsite and set up our still-wet 2-man tent. We had the luxurious choice of two campsites. The first had a quaint hikers shop, quiet avenues of pitches and spotless facilities. The second was 3 pounds cheaper. Obvious, right? The water was a questionable colour, a 3-minute shower cost 50p and a pair of strange old woman appeared to be living under tarpaulines in the middle of the campsite. That 3 pounds goes a long way...

I am probably being harsh though. Unlike some campsites we have visited this site has warm showers, other people, relatively few midges, lovely views, washing & drying facilities which we gladly used, and a pub nearby, in which I sneakily charged my phone.

If the weather remains as forecast we may be able to escape the hellish Lake District tomorrow and enter Scotland. I honestly do not know how people can live in such rain-sodden mountains permanently and not become clinically depressed. I guess having large waterproof houses, and shiny metal cars with dry interiors must help. Lucky bastards.

Eerie red skies before the next long rain shower

Stats:
Distance: 36km
Total Distance: 389km

Hilliness: 6/10 (It was tough work for a short stage)
Raininess: 6/10 (Almost all day)
Optimism: 4/10